A Pocket Guide to The Camel Estuary
The Camel Estuary is a broad tidal river valley that spans over half a mile wide at Padstow and stretches lazily inland for five miles up to Wadebridge. A tranquil and intimate landscape, it gains a sense of shelter and richness from the many small woods and creeks that flank the estuary and is unusual, in that, due to its sandy shore it is just as beautiful at low tide as it is when the plug is in!
The surfing mecca of Polzeath sits inside the mouth of the estuary on the eastern bank. The Greenaway separates Polzeath from the quieter Daymer Bay. The exclusive enclave of Rock, with its sailing club and water-ski school, peers across the estuary to the well-known harbour town of Padstow, a working port, with its fleet of trawlers and colourful harbour surrounded by pastel-washed medieval houses. Padstow and the wider Camel Estuary area has become the foodie capital of Cornwall, with celebrity chefs such as Rick Stein, Paul Ainsworth and Nathan Outlaw each having restaurants that draw people from far and wide, and many brilliant up and coming eateries that continue to raise the bar and add to the vibrant foodie paradise.
The Camel Estuary is quite literally brimming with things to do, try, visit and taste, but here’s our pick of the bunch
VISIT
TREVIBBAN MILL
Escape to the exotic climate of Trevibban Mill, an award-winning working vineyard known for its stunning collection of Cornish wines and cider. The dog-friendly vineyard and orchard is located just outside Padstow, providing the perfect space to sit and admire the country views while sipping on a glass of their finest. Take a tour, book a table for lunch, stock up on supplies - and relax. It’s also the location for Barnaby’s pop-up restaurant, should you fancy an extra culinary treat. If you wish to continue your wine tour of the area, Camel Valley Vineyard lies just outside Bodmin in Nanstallon.
NATIONAL LOBSTER HATCHERY
Conveniently situated next to Padstow’s main car park, the award-winning National Lobster Hatchery offers a unique opportunity to get up close to the European lobster. Learn about the conservation efforts behind supporting one of Cornwall's most iconic creatures and see lobsters at all stages of development, from tiny larvae to juveniles ready for release. Lobster hatching season starts in Spring and finishes around October so, if you would like to baby lobsters, make sure to visit during this period. You can even support by adopting a baby lobster to be released into the wild.
ST ENODOC CHURCH
A trip to Daymer Bay wouldn’t be complete without taking in the endearingly crooked spire of St Enodoc Church, which can be found nested within the rolling greens of the world-famous St Enodoc Golf Course. This fantastically historic church is the resting place of the famous Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman who spent much of his childhood in the area. This inspired many of his poems which you won’t find hard to believe with the scenery you find yourself surrounded by. St Enodoc Church is truly enchanting in every way and is one of our top three favourite churches in the county!
PRIDEAUX PLACE
A mere 10-minute walk from Padstow harbour and set in its own historic gardens and deer park, Prideaux Place is a hidden gem. Still lived in by the Prideaux-Brunes (the family for whom it was built) the manor house is superbly maintained and has a unique, lived in feel – wherein exquisite paintings and antiques from a range of periods are interspersed with family portraits and comfortable furniture. Take a guided tour round the house and gardens and enjoy a light lunch in the terraced tearooms overlooking the fallow deer and stunning Camel estuary.
EAT
FEE’S FOOD
Try Fee’s Food deli and café for all occasions, with all you need to create a perfect picnic, Cornish–style, or eat in with them surrounded by the buzz of their friendly team. They offer freshly prepared quiches, sourdough and pastries but, better still, they do tasty ready meals (that have saved us on a number of occasions) which they can deliver too! Using Cornish produce wherever possible, including the famous oysters and mussels from the estuary, they have a great selection of heartwarming, homely and healthy options, that are even better than ‘mum’s cooking’.
PAUL AINSWORTH NO 6.
For the ultimate treat… hidden within the walls of this whitewashed Georgian townhouse on a back street is Padstow’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, No 6. Owned by Paul Ainsworth. Guests are put centre stage and are treated to a real experience, with a creative and sometimes playful menu that is underpinned by well-honed classic techniques and the finest Cornish produce. Praised for its inventiveness, the menu is best seen to be believed, and coupled with their outstanding service, your visit will certainly be a memorable one.
PRAWN ON THE LAWN
A cosy sanctuary delivering plates with punchy flavours, creativity and charm using the finest, in season produce from around. The enthusiastic team at Prawn on the Lawn make it great fun and create a laid-back vibe, and then there’s their pop up, Barnaby’s, which runs throughout the summer months and is tucked away down a Cornish Lane at Trevibban Mill Vineyard, just a stone’s throw from Padstow. With real soul, their seasonal small plate menu is packed with flavour and this, paired with Trevibban’s local wines and cocktails, makes it the perfect hang out to while away a summer evening.
FOUR BOYS
New kid(s) on the block from the team behind Fees, in what used to be the Blue Tomato Café by the ferry across the Camel Estuary from Rock to Padstow, Four Boys is a licensed all-day café under the care of local lad and head chef Matt Wadsworth. On the menu is locally caught seafood and seasonal produce including salads and veggies grown in Rock. Walk-ins only and dog friendly, it’s a refreshingly welcoming and laid-back atmosphere and the food never disappoints – a new star in Rock is born!
DO
GET ON (OR IN) THE WATER
Surfing, supping, wild swimming, windsurfing, coasteering, canoeing... the list of watersports to be found in the area is sure to please all types of water baby. Kayak the River Camel, ride the wake or paddle out from Rock, helm a boat or catch a wave with Wavehunters at Polzeath (or try FlowRider at Retallack Resort), or venture to Liskeard for Adrenalin Quarry: the biggest aqua park in the southwest.
CAMEL TRAIL
One of the best days out in Cornwall, lace up your walking shoes or rent a bike and explore the scenic 18-mile-long Camel Trail. This traffic-free route presents a brilliant multi-use track for walkers, horse-riders, runners and cyclists to explore the area and take in the multitude of oh-so pretty sights. Following a disused railway line between Wenfordbridge, Bodmin, Wadebridge and Padstow, expect estuary-wide views, magical wooded valleys, stirring moorlands and wildlife aplenty.
THE BREA HILL CHALLENGE
Nestled between Rock and Polzeath, Daymer Bay is a coastal haven with a sloping beach, safe waters and rugged sand dunes. On calm days, its shelter makes Daymer Bay a popular spot for swimming, while wind surfers and water sports enthusiasts flock here when the breeze gets up. Brea Hill rises above the soft golden sands. Challenge your family to a race to the summit and catch your breath whilst taking in spectacular views of the Camel Estuary out to sea.
SPEND AN AFTERNOON AT PORTHILLY COVE
From long stretches of golden sand to small, rocky coves and breathtaking views you are spoilt for choice when it comes to quality beaches in and around this area. Hidden away off the beaten track, Porthilly Cove is one of our favourites. A tranquil haven for evening barbecues, dog walks, and water sports, it’s a wonderful discovery just around the corner from the well-trodden sands of Rock Beach. If you have ever sampled a Porthilly muscle or oyster, here is where they are farmed - you can often see baskets full of fresh oysters lining the shore. Don’t miss having a look inside St Michael's Church, steeped in history, its location alone is enough to take your breath away.
Main image: Chris Whittaker